Uneasy Rhetoric

Remember back in the day when Japanese restaurants weren’t all about the sushi bar? I remember the old Taki at 20th and J with its cracking vinyl seats and its kitchy Japanese restaurant decor. I don’t even think it had a sushi bar or, if it did, it certainly wasn’t the centerpiece.

The new Taki is a definite upgrade. Soft lighting and dark wood, cushy padded bench-seats in the windows. And a sushi bar with just one television and the volume wasn’t turned up. Of course, I was there on a Monday night. Overall, the ambiance is comfortable.

Service at the new Taki is fast and friendly. The miso is good but is served in clay pots that are a little too warm to the touch. My wife had the vegetable tempura and I had teriyaki beef and sashimi (two tuna and three salmon). The tempura batter was too thick, but the vegetables were cooked through. The teriyaki beef was perfectly cooked and tender - usually my teriyaki beef is a little too chewy. Unfortunately, it was smothered in sauce that was both sweet and salty. The sashimi was okay, but a little pasty, for lack of a better word.

However, Taki is not expensive. The sushi is reasonably priced, running about $3.50 a serving. Dinner entrees are all under $10, and dinner combos are $12.95 for two or $14.95 for three items. We got out for just $30, including tip.

I will likely be going back to try the sushi bar, and Taki will be a good alternative on Mondays when Sakurabana, my usual haunt, is closed.

Service: excellent. Ambiance: excellent. Food: fair.