Uneasy Rhetoric

Pennisi’s Deli ***
1237 J Street
$7-9

Pennisi’s is an institution, from a time when they were located in what is now the lobby and bar area of the Sheraton. I almost don’t want to say anything bad about it because of its longevity. But I have to say this: “oh God, not another sandwich place.”

Face it, Americans eat sandwiches for lunch. If we didn’t Subway wouldn’t be the world’s biggest fast food restaurant and Sacramento wouldn’t be overrun with delis. Pennisi’s sandwiches are as good as any others, but more expensive than Tony’s or Hannah’s Corner (review forthcoming). Their standouts are the hot sandwiches, for example, a tuna melt and a polish kielbasa sandwich. They also have a variety of salads that you can choose from and that come with the sandwich. I’ve only had the fruit salad, but I expect the others are good as well.

Three stars because the hot sandwiches provide a nice change of pace, but the rest of the menu doesn’t, and, even though the sandwiches come with salad, the prices are a skosh high.