Uneasy Rhetoric

Downtown Déjeuner:

Park Plaza Cafe ***

924 J Street

$6-$9

I don’t get it. At lunchtime, every restaurant on J Street is packed with people, except this one. Maybe it’s because they look closed from the outside. Maybe no one likes borscht. Maybe everyone is protesting Russia’s unwillingness to support Iraq II. They even do take out, although the place does invite a little sit-down.

Even if you’re afraid of Russian food (shame on you if you are; Russian food done well is phenomenally good), the Park Plaza Cafe deserves a shot. They have an eclectic menu with everything from the ubiquitous turkey sandwich ($3.75, last time I checked) to schnitzel (Russian style) to Pelmeni. They even serve Burgers and a Rueben.

I’ve been three or four times now, and each time have gone with the intent to order the Rueben. Each time though I’ve been drawn away by the specials board, which has almost always featured a hearty family style item like chicken Parmesan on fetuccini. Not the most creative item, but hot and filling. The pasta was a bit soggy, but that seems to be common at Russian restaurants. Have a cup of the borscht while you’re there. Borscht in general is not something to make you go “wow,” but Park Plaza Cafe’s is good, and probably doubly good on a cold and wet afternoon.

The ambiance is simple and unobtrusive, a good place for a power lunch at an upstairs table or a quiet lunch at one of the tables by the windows. The service is fast, sometimes very fast, and polite.

Park Plaza Cafe also does a traditional American breakfast for about three bucks and someday I’m going to go there just for breakfast.

Three stars for an eclectic menu, excellent specials, service so fast even your half-hour lunch will feel relaxed, and food that won’t bowl you over but will fill you up and keep you happy. This restaurant deserves far more customers than it seems to get – certainly more than some others on J Street.

And for heaven’s sake, try the borscht!