Uneasy Rhetoric

Downtown Déjeuner:

Tony’s Deli and Mart ***1/2

1131 J St

$6 - $8

Sacramento is home to no end of deli/mini-mart combinations. They dot the landscape with their two aisles of candy bars and potato chips, back wall of soda coolers, and a deli counter offering a small and classic selection of deli sandwiches, salads, and soup du jour.

Tony’s benefits from being on the same block as my office, thus it wins automatic points for location. If I want a soda or a Snickers, it’s there. If I need to grab a bite and get right back to the office, it’s there.

The regular deli sandwiches are good and nothing fancy. They may or may not be better than Subway, depending on what you’re in the mood for. I’m usually in the mood for pastrami on rye, which Subway doesn’t make, and Tony’s is good. Like most places though, Tony’s has a small selection of specials that will please. They offer a meatloaf sandwich I’ve yet to try. They make an excellent falafel sandwich I’ve had twice already, and their chili makes my mouth water just thinking about it.

Their salads are salads, but big enough that you don’t feel cheated out of $5.50. Throw in a bowl of chili and a drink and you’re looking at a $10 meal.

As for ambiance remember, this is a mini-mart. There are tables along one wall, next to the big windows, that might suffice if you’re just trying to eat anywhere but the office break room. Service is good but the wait can be a while, and there isn’t any easy indication of where the line starts or ends.

Tony’s was a two-point-five star place the first time I went there, but it has grown on me. It provides an excellent, if somewhat expensive, alternative to Subway. Three and a half stars for excellent food that is generally a good value but hey, it’s a mini-mart.