Uneasy Rhetoric

Downtown Déjeuner:

Taqueria Los Gallos ***

911 K St Based on one visit.

Less than $8.

Here a taco, there a taco, everywhere a taqueria. I like taquerias. I like walking into a place and seeing lengua (tongue) or mariscos (seafood) on the menu. Lengua, if prepared well, is pretty good, but in general I don’t order it. Taquerias smell good. And Taqueria Los Gallos is good.

After an interminable wait in line (I went the day after Christmas and it was one of only a handful of places that seemed to be open) and the sad discovery that they were out of pastor (spicy pork), I ordered a super beef burrito — that is, a burrito with all the fixins.

Given the crowd, I expected a long wait, but I wasn’t even finished with a one-page article in the Sacramento News and Review when my burrito was delivered to my little table with the attached swivly chair.

My giant burrito would have been worth the wait. Everything was wraped inside the tortilla, and the burrito was served wrapped in foil, as if I’d gotten it to go, still hot. The beef had been slightly charred and not in a bad way, although after a while that smoky taste did get a bit tiresome. I also wish they’d had metal utensils. I’m not a big fan of eating fat burritos with flimsy plastic knives that don’t cut and forks that don’t pierce.

I’m ready to go back and try more items from the menu.

Three stars for excellent food, an extensive menu, and adequate serving time but a dining room that looks like, and I think may have once been, a McDonalds.